Per Se

Prior to the spring of 2004, New Yorkers were right to be kicking themselves. Though superstar chef Thomas Keller started off his stellar career in the Big Apple at acclaimed restaurants La Reserve, Restaurant Raphael and Rakel, it was at The French Laundry on the Californian coast that he hit his stride and came to be seen as the US' greatest
chef. How could they have let him get away?
When Keller came back to New York to open his East Coast outpost in 2004, he was welcomed with open arms. He opened Per Se in the Time Warner Centre, an upscale mall of smart shops and smarter restaurants, at Columbus Circle at the south-east corner of Central Park. Renowned designer Adam Tihany makes the most of the setting where you'll find a version of the famous blue door - fashioned after the French Laundry's own, an elegant fireplace and a field-stone interior in a crisp, urban environment, with excellent views of the park and just 15 coveted tables.

Prior to the spring of 2004, New Yorkers were right to be kicking themselves. Though superstar chef Thomas Keller started off his stellar career in the Big Apple at acclaimed restaurants La Reserve, Restaurant Raphael and Rakel, it was at The French Laundry on the Californian coast that he hit his stride and came to be seen as the US' greatest chef. How could they have let him get away?

When Keller came back to New York to open his East Coast outpost in 2004, he was welcomed with open arms. He opened Per Se in the Time Warner Centre, an upscale mall of smart shops and smarter restaurants, at Columbus Circle at the south-east corner of Central Park. Renowned designer Adam Tihany makes the most of the setting where you'll find a version of the famous blue door - fashioned after the French Laundry's own, an elegant fireplace and a field-stone interior in a crisp, urban environment, with excellent views of the park and just 15 coveted tables.

Chef de Cuisine Jonathan Benno has followed a nicely varied East-West learning curve. The CIA grad started in the Bay Area at Michael Mina at Aqua before joining Chef Keller in Napa. He ended up back on the East Coast, where he accrued experience at major names such as Daniel, Les Célébrités, Gramercy Tavern and Craft.

He was soon drawn back to Napa for 18 months where he worked with Keller on the Per Se concept. There are two menus only, both nine courses, a chef's tasting and a vegetable tasting menu. Classics from the French Laundry, such as the famed Oysters and Pearls and the Salmon Tartare, are there, but the daily-changing menu also includes perfect examples of the Per Se style, complete with Keller's signature speechmarks - "Schnitzel Holstein" Pan Roast "Ris de Veau", Sunny-Side Up Quail Egg, Herb "SpŠtzle"; or "Omelette aux Fines Herbes", Herb Roasted Salsify, "B‰tons" and "Coulis de Cresson".

Behind the stove:
Chef de Cuisine Jonathan Benno runs the kitchen under Thomas Keller

Always on the menu:
There is no one dish always on the menu as it changes daily

Random fact:
Keller's kitchen is modelled on that of fellow top 50 restaurant Taillevent, where he worked in the '80s

Wine list:
$50 - $18,000 (£50 - £8,992)

Menu:
Prix Fixe $250 (£125)

10 Columbus Circle (at 60th Street), 4th Floor, New York, NY 10019, USA
++1 212 823 9335 www.perseny.com